Amarnath Trek

🪖🤔 Ponderings of a Pongo 🤔🪖

A Pilgrimage, a Test of Fitness, and a Young Pongo’s Brush with Enlightenment!

As the evening of life settles in, one occasionally feels the urge to declutter - to separate the essential from the trivial and preserve what truly matters. During one such exercise, I was sorting through old, fungus-ridden photographs when a few black-and-white negatives caught my eye. Taken with my trusty Agfa Super-Isolette bellows camera, they had lain forgotten for decades. Once developed, they brought back memories of my Amarnath Yatra, more than half a century ago.

Some memories live in photographs; others remain etched in the soul. And a few - especially those involving high mountains, holy men and youthful indiscretion - remain gloriously unforgettable!

Suddenly, I was young again. The cold returned, snow crunched beneath my boots, and the Himalayas rose before me. My knees were younger, my boots tougher, and conquering a mountain seemed infinitely more attractive than it does today!

But this was no ordinary pilgrimage. It was a military test, a spiritual experience and, as events unfolded, an adventure involving a mysterious substance, hospitable holy men and an unexpectedly entertaining descent.

Before joining the trail, a little about our sacred destination.

The Abode Of Mahadeva 🙏

        Nestled at approximately 3,888 metres (12,756 feet) in the Himalayas of Jammu and Kashmir, the Amarnath Cave is one of the most revered pilgrimage destinations dedicated to Lord Shiva. Surrounded by glaciers, snowfields and towering mountains, it remains inaccessible for much of the year. The Amarnath mountain itself has a peak of 5186 meters (17014 feet)

Unlike a conventional temple, the shrine is a natural cave of limestone and gypsum, celebrated for its Swayambhu - self-manifested - ice Shivlinga (an aniconic representation of Shiva). Water trickling from the roof freezes into a naturally formed stalagmite (column of ice), traditionally believed to wax and wane with the lunar cycle. Smaller formations are associated by devotees with Devi Parvati and Lord Ganesha. The ShivLinga is at its peak during Hindu calendar Shravan Masa which roughly falls in August.

Though not counted among the twelve Jyotirlingas, Amarnath occupies a special place in the spiritual imagination of Shiva devotees.

Its legend is equally captivating.

When Devi Parvati asked Lord Shiva about immortality and the mystery of birth and rebirth, He agreed to reveal the Amar Katha, the secret of immortality, on the condition that no living creature overheard it.

According to tradition, Shiva left Nandi at Pahalgam, the moon at Chandanwari, the serpents at Sheshnag, Lord Ganesha at Mahagunas Parvat and the Five Elements (Air, water, fire, earth and sky) at Panjtarni before entering the cave with Parvati. He then created Kalagni to destroy all life nearby, ensuring secrecy. Yet a pair of pigeons concealed in the cave are believed to have overheard the discourse and attained immortality. Devotees still cherish the possibility of seeing them.

Whether approached through faith, folklore or sheer wonder, there is something extraordinary about a natural cave amid Himalayan snows, where nature itself appears to have fashioned a shrine.

That was our destination.

The Pilgrimage That Was Also A Military Test 🪖

We were young officers and soldiers undergoing Mountain Warfare Course Serial 23 at the High Altitude Warfare School (HAWS), Sonamarg, from 10 August to 12 October 1972. Eleven officers from my batch were among the course participants. Most of us looked forward to a mountain adventure, although a few, as usual, appeared to have left their morale somewhere back at the unit!

The Amarnath Yatra was a qualifying test of endurance, resilience and survival in an unforgiving environment. Those who fell out risked being RTU (Returned to Unit) - without completing the course.

Our mission sounded simple: reach the cave, install a heavy bell using a piton and carabiner, and return safely to base. Simple enough on paper, particularly when read in a warm office at sea level! The mountains, however, had other ideas.

The Trail That Separated The Soldiers From The Public!

Our approach was from the Sonamarg - Kargil side, through the Drass - Minamarg / Mushkoh Valley region, involving roughly seven to eight kilometres of arduous mountain movement.

Seven kilometres on a level road is a stroll. Across steep, snowbound slopes, glaciers, crevasses and icy streams, it becomes an entirely different proposition. Every step demanded concentration; every load reminded us that gravity respects neither rank nor enthusiasm. There were no porters or helicopters to lighten our burden. We were soldiers, and if the mission required a bell, the bell would go!

Fat Himalayan marmots scurried among the rocks, while a troop of baboons foraged higher up. The wildlife added a touch of animation to an otherwise austere landscape.

Then curiosity got the better of me.

A Discovery Not On The Training Sylabus!

I stepped away from the column towards a rocky outcrop where a baboon was foraging. There, I noticed a dark, viscous substance oozing from cracks in the rock face. One glance, and my mind raced. Shilajit!

At least, that was what I believed I had discovered - a substance associated with Himalayan rocks and valued in traditional Ayurvedic practice - and well accredited as an aphrodisiac !

While the rest of the column hauled the bell, I acquired a side assignment in natural history. I collected a small lump, tasted it and found it distinctly bitter.😖

There was no laboratory, no expert consultation and certainly no time for investigation. A soldier who lingers too long soon finds himself having a private conversation with the mountains! I rejoined the column. Before long, I began to feel unusually warm despite the cold. The going seemed easier, my enthusiasm soared, and I even volunteered to help carry the bell. Was it physical exertion, the excitement of the climb - or had my mysterious discovery begun to work its magic?😰

With no medical expert around to spoil the fun with a scientific explanation, I favoured the most exciting possibility. Perhaps I had discovered the Himalayan equivalent of rocket fuel!

The Moment of Darshan 🙏

Eventually, after negotiating icy obstacles and climbing through the frozen landscape, we reached the sacred cave.

There stood the natural ice Shivlinga, with smaller formations traditionally associated with Devi Parvati and Lord Ganesha. Outside, snow-covered mountains stood in solemn majesty; within the cave, an extraordinary stillness prevailed.

It was August, during the Hindu month of Shravan, and we had arrived at an auspicious time for Darshan when the Shiv lingam is in Its full posture !

For a Moment, the Soldier in Me Gave Way to the Pilgrim.🪖😇

The aching limbs, biting wind, thin air and treacherous terrain seemed a small price to pay for that glimpse of the sacred formation. What had begun as a military objective now felt like a privilege granted by Mahadeva Himself.

Har Har Mahadev! Sambho Maha Deva !

But devotion did not excuse us from completing the task. We had not hauled that bell up the mountain merely to admire the scenery!

The Bell Must Ring 🔔 

We got down to work. Using  pitons and carabiners, we secured the heavy bell in position. Its clang joined those of countless bells installed by successive HAWS courses, echoing through the cold air and rocky walls.

Mission accomplished! We offered our prayers, sought Mahadeva’s blessings and savoured what every exhausted soldier cherishes after a demanding exercise: permission to rest.

I also remembered the legendary pigeons. Having travelled so far to the abode of the immortal, I naturally looked for the immortal birds. Unfortunately, they remained elusive.

Little did I know that the day’s most memorable encounter was still ahead.

Enter the Naga Sadhus

Among the sights that remain etched in my memory are the Naga Sadhus. Bare-bodied and covered in sacred ash, they sat in the snow as though it were a comfortable drawing room. They puffed away at their traditional chillums, apparently communing with the cosmos - or simply enjoying their smoke! Their smiles were warm and welcoming. Their teeth, however, were heavily stained, encrusted, though apparently equal to the occasion.

Before long, the chillums were being passed around. How does one politely refuse a Naga Sadhu’s hospitality in his own sacred domain? What would one tell the battalion - that we had negotiated glaciers and crevasses successfully, only to be defeated by a holy man’s invitation? I accepted the chillum. So, the others. Initially out of curiosity and later with intent. One cautious puff. Then another. And, as the conversation continued, perhaps a few more than prudence would have recommended!

In retrospect, this was not among the more scientifically sound decisions of my military career. But hindsight, like good intelligence, often arrives too late.

When the Mountains began to Float! 🥴

The transformation was subtle at first.

The cold seemed to lose its authority. The snow looked less like a hostile surface and more like a giant mattress. My feet appeared to be reconsidering their responsibilities. The mountains swayed gently before my eyes, and a broad, foolish smile settled on my face. Was it altitude, fatigue, exertion or the Sadhus’ hospitality?😜

For a brief spell, there was no enemy to locate, no map to consult and no bell to carry - only snow, mountains, sky and the sensation of floating through a benevolent dream.

Sublime bliss!😇

Eventually, we had to leave.

I would like to claim that I descended like an Alpine skier. A more accurate description would be a mildly disoriented snowman attempting to remember the finer points of locomotion! Yet somehow, we progressed.

A Miracle of Military Mobility!

Our orders were clear: reach base camp before last light. Nightfall in such terrain was no laughing matter.

I was not alone in my altered state. Several companions appeared to be enjoying their own versions of spiritual elevation. The column presented an unusual spectacle: aspiring mountain-warfare soldiers moving through the snow with beatific expressions! There was little complaining and, to my astonishment, no stragglers.

We reached base camp before last light - in record time, or so it seemed. Whether this was military conditioning, determination, divine intervention or distorted perception, I leave to posterity.

The important thing was that we all returned safely. The episode never became the subject of formal charges! because there was hardly anyone who were left out.

That night, most of us retired wearing the same peculiar smiles.

The course had tested our endurance, the sacred cave had inspired devotion, and the Naga Sadhus had introduced us to an unconventional form of relaxation. The mission was complete. The bell had been installed, and Mahadeva had received His offering.

The Course: Endurance, Camaraderie and Sacrifice

The Mountain Warfare Course pushed us towards the limits of human endurance. Its challenges extended far beyond snowbound climbs and negotiating glaciers like Kolahoi glazier and mock mountaineering expeditions.

During rock-craft training, which included rappelling near the Sindh River, tragedy struck. While crossing its icy waters, a sudden flash flood claimed the lives of five of our comrades, including an officer, The mountains can change from benign to merciless in moments. Courage, training and skill cannot always overcome the forces of nature.

Those comrades shared our hardships, aspirations and journey through the course. Their loss remains a solemn reminder of the risks inherent in a soldier’s calling.

May the Almighty grant their souls a peaceful and exalted passage to their eternal abode.

Om Shanti. Sadgatir Bhooyath. 🙏

Their memory lends poignancy to this otherwise light-hearted recollection. The mountains gave us adventure and camaraderie, but they also reminded us of the price that can accompany our profession.

Bring Back My Bonnie! 🎶

Today, those old photographs transport me across more than half a century.

I can almost feel the biting cold, hear boots crunching on snow, see the ice Shivlinga and recall the young soldiers who carried the bell to its destination. I remember the elusive pigeons, the mysterious substance I discovered as Shilajit, the hospitable Sadhus and that extraordinary descent when the snow seemed softer and the world kinder than it had any right to be!

The photographs may be fading, the negatives may have gathered fungus, and the knees may now demand considerable persuasion before agreeing to a climb. But the memories remain remarkably well preserved.

As I gaze at those images, a familiar tune begins to play:

“O bring back, O bring back,

Bring back my Bonnie to me…”

Only this time, it is not Bonnie I wish to bring back. It is that young Pongo - the one who could cross glaciers, undertake mountaineering expeditions, climb to Mahadeva’s abode, haul a bell up a mountain and return with a foolish smile and an everlasting story!

We cannot turn back the clock, but we can revisit those moments, laugh at our youthful follies and give thanks for the experiences that shaped us.

Perhaps, as Mahadeva looks down upon an old soldier reminiscing about his Himalayan adventures, He smiles indulgently and says:

“This one certainly took the scenic route to enlightenment!”

🙏 Sambho Mahadeva! 🙏

🙏 Har Har Mahadeva! 🙏

 -Col Ravi Nair-